In August 2013 we went with our 3 boys (aged 7, 11 and 13) to Costa Rica. Being the rainy (sorry, ‘green’!) season, it did rain a lot, especially on the Caribbean coast, but boys aren’t into sunbathing much, and we had lots else to do anyway….
We flew in to San Jose and after spending a night in a beautiful colonial style hotel, we transferred by bus to Tortuguero National Park on the Carribbean coast, not far from the border with Nicaragua. It is not accessible by road, so after about 3 hours in a little minibus, driving through coffee and banana plantations, and looking out for giant blue morpho butterflies, we arrived at the bus terminal, where everyone got out and headed down to the river. The last hour was by motor boat, sometimes slowly winding along the Tortuguero river (not much wider than a stream, where we spotted basilisk lizards and caimen – in the crocodile family) and then speeding up on the wider stretches.
We stayed in Tortuguero Lodge, owned by Costa Rica Expeditions, for 4 nights. The hotel has mosquito nets in the windows of the rooms, but no glass – we went to sleep listening to the sounds of the rainforest all around us, and woke to the sound of the animals waking up (mostly howler monkeys!). The food was local (lots of coconut milk, plantains, and fish and the most delicious pineapples I have ever tasted).
While we were there we kayaked along tiny creeks, saw howler, cappucin and spider monkeys, sloths, caimen, crocodiles, iguanas, snakes, poison dart frogs, dozens of bird species and one night we went down to the beach and saw a giant green sea turtle in the process of laying her eggs into a hole she had excavated in the sand (our guide made sure we were very careful not to disturb her).
We flew out from Tortuguero in a tiny plane, giving us a bird’s eye view of the surrounding forest, veiled in cloud. Next stop was Arenal, until recently an active volcano, but now dormant again. There we lounged around in hot springs (very hot!), went white water rafting (down the Sarapiqui river – yes, even our 7 year old!) and rapelled down the most enormous waterfalls I can imagine (yes, again including the 7 year old!). The fact that it was raining was irrelevant – we’d have been soaked anyway! I can safely say I was the least brave in our family, and I still just about managed it, and am incredibly proud of myself for overcoming my fears.
We travelled overland to the Monteverde Cloud Forest, not far away, but over some very bumpy tracks (I think they deliberately don’t metal some of the roads to keep the crowds down). Another magical forest, where we saw armadillos, tarantulas, a porcupine and a kinkajou (really!). No sighting of the mystical quetzal, but several hundred hummingbirds, which were stunningly beautiful! Outside the cloud forest, we went for one last adrenaline rush – and what a rush! Costa Rica is well known not only for its ecotourism (it is the greenest country I have ever been too – and not just in colour!) but for its giant zip wires. The zip line tour lasted about 3 hours, with about 20 zip lines altogether, the longest being about 1km long. We flew over the forest, sometimes looking down at toucans and monkeys high in the canopy, but still far below us. Yes, even our 7 year old managed! It was a truly exhilarating day, and fantastic fun for us all.
Our final stop was on the Pacific coast, in Tamarindo, where we stayed in a luxurious hotel, and lazed in the warm swimming pool set amongst luxurious tropical gardens, venturing out only for a spot of surfing in the bay, a bit of sea-kayaking and a snorkel trip (where we also saw Ridley’s turtles swimming).
As a way to keep three adventurous boys entertained, it was a holiday second to none. We all learned lots about eco tourism, rainforests and endangered species. And we all had a fantastic time falling to earth at various speeds suspended from harnesses and wires or in boats. In Costa Rica you hear lots about the ‘pura vida’ – their national motto literally meaning ‘pure life’ but encompassing their environmentally concerned, chilled out, peaceful, respectful and welcoming attitude. It is not only their motto but a greeting and a way of life. I would thoroughly recommend the country, its people, its amazingly diverse wildlife and the activities on offer there.
by TMS