When Australian cousins suggested we meet up for a summer holiday in Greece I had no hesitation in choosing Kefalonia. I’ve always loved the Ionian islands, probably just because they are greener than their Aegean cousins, and I had always wanted to visit Kefalonia, the biggest and most varied.
After a dramatic drive to, and up, the northern spine of the island the first thing we noticed when we arrived on above Fiskardo – was the amazing view and how close the landmasses were. Five islands; Levkas, Ithaca, Meganissi, Arkoudi and Kalamos, plus the mainland beyond. You could spend all day watching the changing light on the mountains of Ithaca, the scurrying yachts and the small bustling ferries doing the short inter-island routes or the behemoths steaming south from Italy & Croatia to Patras.
Fiskardo was ridiculously pretty. Boats, yachts, ferries, cafes, restaurants, boutiques, bars, pastel coloured Venetian buildings and Ithaca in the background. During the day a sleepy torpor could hang around the harbour but later on the great and the good came out to play either strolling down the hill or stepping off their yachts and gin-palaces. Many restaurants saved a few choice waters-edge places for their VIPs, booking was advisable, and all were proud of their unique home-made dishes. Eating and drinking well was the norm – aided admirably by the superb local robola wine.
We stayed in the Almyra Hotel up above the town, with its stupendous views. We were recommended the hotel for its location and style what we did not know was how well we would be looked after by Elina and Eleni; incredibly warm and friendly they could not have made us, and all the guests, more welcome. We had taken two of the roof top apartments with self-catering facilities and splendid terraces. They work very well for families looking for spacious and stylish accommodation with the all benefits of a hotel and the flexibility of an apartment. The hotel lounge was a lovely escape from the heat and the pool excellent.
It was walking distance down the nearest beach, Emblisi, with its rock terraces and turquoise blue colouring. Round the other side of Fiskardo was Foki Beach, a personal favourite, with olive trees for shade, a cave to swim into and traditional taverna behind the beach, under its vines. A short drive around the northern tip brought us close to Dafnoudi beach – the 20 minute walk through the Tolkein-like forest made its seclusion even more special.
So apart from the beaches and evenings around Fiskardo harbour what did we do?
We had a couple of days diving and having only done this in the tropics before the contrast was amazing – the shipwreck of a Roman trading vessel which floundered in the Ithaca Channel, its amphorae spilling down the seabed, the remains of a Bristol Beaufighter shot down in 1944 after attacking Fiskardo Harbour, a sunken ferry and sea cave – it was with thanks to Cedric at Fiskardo Divers that we had such great experiences.
We took a boat trip out to Ithaca and the pretty harbours of Frikes and Kioni where everything seemed to be at a different, and slower, pace to Kefalonia. We also visited the stunning village of Assos on the west coast. Many people have asked over the years what the main image is on the Putney Travel home page – it’s Assos and it really does look as pretty as that. Taking the climb up to the magnificent Venetian fortress was well worth it for the views and, particularly later in the day, what a charming place.
Apart from that we just hung out, that’s what Greece is good for – beautiful views, the sea, beaches, legendary mountains, fresh seafood and relaxing.
Kefalonia has a wide variety of different accommodation with good mid-range hotels and reasonable villa options across the island. Ask us about options to stay there or perhaps include it in a two centre holiday with Ithaca.
by TMS