On Charlie’s recommendation, my husband Jan and I took off for a couple of days in late November to Kakslauttanen, a winter resort in Lapland. Arriving at Ivalo airport at 6pm, pitch black, crisp fresh air and incredibly cold, you realise immediately you are in the Arctic Circle.
We were picked up at the airport along with perhaps 20 other guests and driven in 30 minutes to a real winter wonderland, Kakslauttanen. There was masses of snow and stretching out before us, we could see beautiful log cabins and quirky glass igloos all lit up in a Christmassy fashion. To add to this fairy tale atmosphere we could hear the sound of barking Huskies in the distance. The main reception and restaurant was warm and welcoming with large fireplaces with smouldering logs. We sat down to supper before checking in as the restaurant closed at 8PM. The set menu was good and fresh, but nothing to write home about. We enjoyed trying the Finnish beers, which couldn’t be sampled in any less than a pint glass.
The part of the resort we were staying in had just opened the week before, so check-in was somewhat chaotic and the directions to our Kelo cabin (a brilliant mix of a log cabin with a glass igloo front for star gazing and, if you are lucky, those much sought after Northern lights) were so poor, we probably saw the whole resort before arriving at our front door. Once inside, our wonderful cabin proved huge. Sparingly, but tastefully furnished with locally crafted wooden furniture and decorated with dark red Sami made bedspreads and curtains, the overall effect of this cabin was absolutely charming. With a huge fireplace, and our own sauna, we were all set for this romantic break. Although it was cloudy, I had hoped for a break in the clouds as there was a chance of Aurora Borealis that night. We slept in our igloo bedroom, carefully designed so that no one could look in, but giving us a perfect view of the sky. The clouds did not part for us unfortunately, but none the less it was a wonderful experience.
After breakfast and a brisk walk through the snow the next morning, we arranged the activities for the coming days. We decided on a 2-hour Husky safari and for the following day a 3-hour trip to a nearby reindeer farm on horseback.
With 3 other couples we were brought to the Husky farm and given appropriate clothing, namely overalls and mittens. After a short but thorough instruction session we were off. Fast and exciting. Me perched in the sleigh and Jan steering for the first hour and then swapping places half way. I have to admit, steering was harder than expected and I had a few near collisions with passing trees. Fortunately we all arrived back in one piece.
The next day’s horse riding was amazing. The horses were friendly and obedient, the guide knowledgeable and skilled. As the other couple that were to ride with us cancelled, we were given a privileged, private tour. In the fluttering snow, we rode through the Lappish countryside with only the pat of the horse’s hooves in the snow and the odd Husky howl to break the silence. With a bowl of local fish soup and a cup of warm berry juice to warm us up afterwards, this was a truly wonderful experience.
The next day we left for the airport without seeing the Northern lights, but hey, it no longer seemed as important. Lapland was a treat – the kind people, the fresh air, the great fish and the amazing countryside. Thanks Charlie!
We love getting feedback from clients so many thanks to Paula for this. Visits to Lapland are not just about the Northern Lights as there is so much to do during the day. Here’s an earlier Lapland blog
by TMS