I have finally managed to catch up with the first episode of Ottomans: Europe’s Muslim Emperors. As fascinated as I was to find out more about this Empire I was even more struck by Istanbul – its history, atmosphere and magnificent location.
I think Ayia Sofia (Aghia Sophia) is possibly my favourite building in the world. Sitting as it does in squat majesty on the skyline it is a combination of its age, to think it was built almost 1500 years ago (!) and its interior that makes it so special. You really do enter a glorious space when you walk through the doors – Christians and then Muslims alike must truly have been awed when they entered to pray. The mosaics dazzle and the scale stunning – I am not sure if it is true that the Emperor could ride a horse up onto the upper galleries but it looks possible. While this is the finest sight in the city there are many others to see if so inclined – the two great mosques, Sinan’s masterpieces the Suleymaniye & Blue, the atmospheric Basilica Cistern water reservoir, the mighty Theodosian City Walls, exquisite mosaics in the Kariye Mosque and the Grand Bazaar which played such an excellent part in the movie Skyfall. There is much more than this list however one picture from Rageh Omar’s programme stuck in my mind and it was the truly amazing location of the Sultan’s Tokpaki Palace on its spur surrounded by the sea, a wonderful place to visit and enjoy an apple tea in the gardens.
It is quite possible to overdose on history and sights in Istanbul however for me it is the chaotic nature of the streets, the markets, hidden neighbourhoods, fishermen on the bridge and bustle of two colliding continents that makes it so special. The one thing I always suggest doing involves no sightseeing but is to catch the public ferry up the Bosphorus to the end of the line – Anadolu Cavagi on the Asiatic shore. Walk up the hill to the ruined fortress and admire the view of the Black Sea in the distance. With your appetite up enjoy a seafood lunch down by the port before catching the ferry home to admire the fine Ottoman Mansions along the Bosphorus and then see the skyline of Istanbul appear in front of you.
The sights are great, the food is excellent and it manages to blend historic treasures with the modern cutting edge of Turkey. I love the place and can’t recommend it highly enough for a long weekend, at pretty much any time of year apart from mid-summer. If you want to find out more about visiting Istanbul, or Turkey in general, then speak to us at Putney Travel.
by TMS